Issue date: 10/1/07 Section: Arts

Tucked away in a small downstairs location, India Quality has been a Kenmore Square institution since it opened in October of 1982 when then-chef and current owner Parmjit Singh first began serving his unique brand of authentic, northern Indian cuisine.

Upon descending the stairs into the restaurant, our first impression was that of entering someone's home, only enhanced by Mr. Singh's warm greeting and effusive personality. The space itself is not large, and is primarily dominated by a medium sized bar backed by a wall of 45 different beers (bottles only) from 35 countries around the world. The restaurant has only fourteen tables, so on a weekend there is usually a line out the door. On a Wednesday night, however, they are operating at about half capacity, creating just enough atmosphere without being noisy and obtrusive.

After we were seated, Mr. Singh explained his philosophy on food and why his restaurant was unique as compared to other Indian restaurants in the area, similar to a proud parent talking about the accomplishment of a successful child. He informed us that every morning he grinds the spice mixes himself from only fresh ingredients; a surprise to us considering that almost all of the spices he mentioned are usually seen in their dried form. When probed further, he revealed that he has all of his spices shipped directly from India, and typically spends at least one month a year in his home country scouting out new spices and purveyors. Each dish contains a mix of ten to fifteen spices, and while most restaurants use the same spices he does (although dried), the overall flavor of the dish relies on the exact proportions used. These formulas, which he has developed over the last 35 years, are kept a closely guarded secret known only to him and his head chef.

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